'Jewellery for Giants'.

Marking  the border between two local authorities, and servicing the local farming and horticultural industries, Wellsford is something of a crossroads.  

Nestled at the spot where SH16 joins SH1 the town, lined with several fast food restaurants here, is half-way between the spectacular Kaipara Harbour to the west and the surf beaches of Pakiri and Mangawhai plus the marine reserve at Goat Island to the east.

There are plenty of shops and accommodation and on New Year’s Day the district stages a rodeo. Just off SH16 and close to the Caltex station is the Albertland Museum. This small museum provides a wealth of information and artefacts about the area and the pioneering families who settled it.

The Garden Centre in Wellsford, formerly called The Junction, changed hands at the end of 2008, and is now run by a couple from Great Barrier Island – Dale and Russell. “My hubby loves his fishing,” Dale told Rural Living, “and I’ve always loved gardening so we really wanted an outdoors business. We’ve maintained the complete range of products and knowledge that the former owners built up and we do floral arrangements and even brewing equipment! We’ve done our best to keep the small friendly feel this garden centre always had, and we’re very lucky still to have well known local landscaper, Sharon McNnab.”

Poland ATV and Mowers, on SH1 to the north end of Wellsford town , is a  fantastic  example of the changing face of New Zealand. The firm was started by Doug Poland’s grandfather in 1937 in Kaukapakapa, but shifted to Helensville, where a branch is still maintained. In 1993 the firm, still in family hands, moved to Wellsford, which is far more central to the main parts of the business. “Big farming has moved north,” Doug said, “so being here we are right at the hub of a big rural area. I have a passion for anything with an engine in it and I love being involved with good machinery. I think that transfers to our customers’ needs and expectations!”

Cafe Eutopia.

Wellsford, Te Hana and Kaiwaka have had stations on the North Auckland railway since the 1920s. Wellsford was an important stop, and the station and yard sit at the top of the hill, ironically still the lowest part of Wellsford. The run north, downhill, in the days of the Opua express round the sharp curvature typical of the line, was described as “exhilarating” in a wonderful 1953 account. In fact, bar the brief climb to the Topuni tunnel it would have been a clear, fast run right through to the Otamatea River, with a quick halt at the tiny station of Kaiwaka. Today the journey between the three centres can be done by car in a fraction of the time taken by train nearly 60 years ago.

Te Hana, today, is distinguished by the Arts Factory. This old dairy factory complex has been taken over by sculptor and master artist Kerry Strongman, who is not one to be put off by size. Using 45,000 year old swamp Kauri, Kerry has created a series of huge sculptures entitled ‘Jewellery for Giants’ some in excess of 3 metres tall. The gallery is open most days and contains a selection of art and artefacts in every material from jade to stone, timber to metal, and weavings.

North of Te hana and completely remote, you will come to the Base Nature Café. Easy to spot on the left of the Highway as it occupies a Villa moved there from Epsom. It has been run as a café for the last three years by daughter and mother partnership Kerrie-Lee and Jean Vasey. Though a remote spot, Kerrie-Lee felt the area had an unbelievable energy that would draw visitors, who would come to rest and eat good food. “I’ve been right,” she said, “it has exceeded all my expectations. Food is our speciality – we make everything fresh everyday and you won’t find anything wrapped in plastic!”

One firm which causes a few surprises in the area is Topuni Timber. “I think we have two of the biggest billboards in the Kaipara district on SH1 just outside our entrance,” Topuni Timber general manager Richard Pointon said, “yet a lot of locals don’t seem to know we are here!”

“People who do come down our 1 km driveway will be amazed at the size of our site and the good value on offer. Our philosophy is that everyone should be able to benefit from the savings of being able to select direct from the mill. In addition to all our round-wood production we have a complete range of timber for every kind of outdoor project from decking to retaining walls. I have a real affinity with timber, and I love being here. It’s great that so many people who come here seem to feel happy to stop and chat. Obviously they feel welcome – which is what we want!”

Wellsford's famous corrugated sheep.

The indentations of the Kaipara harbour mean that close to Kaiwaka, the Pacific and Tasman are at their closest. Although Kaiwaka might be translated as ‘food canoe’, this narrow point of land was the chief portage point used by the Maori across the peninsula. Today Kaiwaka, founded in 1859 is something of a gourmet’s paradise.

The little town is famous for its decorative lights, but also for the number and quality of its bakeries and cafés. From the south the first is La Nonna, the Italian bakery, run by a delightful Albanian couple who seem to have brought sour-dough bread to new heights. Thereafter there is the gaudy, bright Café Eutopia, which is a sculptural creation in its own right, and specialises in organic food, quite apart from acting as an alternative magnet to the district. For those seeking a picnic stop further north, the Kaiwaka Cheese Shop advertises itself as the last cheese for miles. This is probably true, but this emporium to the olfactory senses is a one stop shop, stocking every kind of delicatessen food and wines. A huge selection of cheeses is kept ‘in the round’ and they are very happy for you to taste, just to be sure!

The Four Square supermarket in Kaiwaka has been in the same family for nearly 85 years. “It started as a tiny hut, in 1924,” Paula Jaques said, “opened and run by Francis Jaques. All his five sons worked in the shop as they left school. The store was renovated in 1950, and in 1967 the new supermarket was built on the site. Today Greg and Glen, grandsons of Francis still own the store, and their father Brian, now 74 still works here. It has moved on quite a bit from when Francis had a single big Kauri Counter, from which he would weigh everything out into brown paper bags.”

North of Kaiwaka is Koanga Gardens, a vital source of heritage seeds and knowledge for gardeners and farmers alike. Close by is Absolute Concrete, which has been on the same site for over 40 years. Just over three years ago Tania and Roddy Coster bought into the company, joining Elaine and Adrian Reddy. “We supply a complete range of concrete and drainage products to the rural, residential and infrastructure sector,” Tania said. “We are a small private company, where customers get to deal directly with the owners. Through our comprehensively stocked shop we get to meet the diverse range of people that live around the Kaiwaka region which helps make it an interesting place. We are proud to be local employers supporting an area that we have grown to love.”